This is the definitive technical reference for the stock Kelly KLS7230S controller used on the 72V ONYX RCR.
It explains how power actually flows through the bike, what each setting really changes, where the real limits come from, and how to tune or troubleshoot the system without damaging the controller, motor, or battery.
This guide is written for riders who want to understand what their bike is doing electrically, not just copy settings.
It covers:
- What voltage and amps actually change on the bike
- Battery amps vs phase amps
- Back EMF and why the bike stops pulling up top
- Kelly field weakening and what it costs in heat
- Kelly regen behavior and the one setting that matters most
- The full stock Kelly 7230S settings from ONYX
- Left control options and wiring
- Domino throttle setup and wiring
- The Blocker Matrix speed limiter and how to remove it
- When an aftermarket controller is worth it
Quick Overview
If you remember nothing else from this guide, remember this:
- Voltage sets your speed ceiling
- Phase amps create launch torque
- Battery amps create heat, sag, and battery stress
- Battery amps and phase amps are not the same thing
- Field weakening increases top speed but sharply increases heat
- Regen strength is fully adjustable in software
- The stock Kelly controller is reliable but intentionally conservative
- Domino throttle setup dramatically improves control and usable throttle range
- Real power gains come from the battery, wiring, and cooling first
- Continuous power is limited by temperature
- Short bursts are limited by controller protection
Everything else in this guide explains why these rules matter and how to work within them safely.
Simple Overview: How Power Flows
ONYX uses a three phase motor system:
Battery (DC) to controller to motor (AC phases)
What each part controls:
- Battery voltage is top speed headroom
- Battery current is battery stress and voltage sag
- Phase current is launch torque
- The controller shapes how safely power is delivered
Horsepower, Torque, and Speed
| Term | Controls |
|---|---|
| Voltage | Speed |
| Current | Torque |
| Power (kW) | Total output |
1 kW is about 1.34 HP
Stock RCR is about 7.2 kW
Battery Amps vs Phase Amps
| Type | Location | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Battery amps | Battery to controller | Battery stress and mid range pull |
| Phase amps | Controller to motor | Launch torque |
Example:
72V × 100A is 7.2 kW input
Phase current during launch can be much higher than battery current
Back EMF: The High Speed Wall
As RPM increases:
- The motor generates voltage
- Available current drops
- Torque falls off
When back EMF is close to battery voltage:
Acceleration stops
The two real ways around it:
- Higher battery voltage
- Field weakening
Field Weakening
Field weakening changes timing so the motor can spin higher at the same voltage.
It works, but it costs heat.
Results:
- Higher top speed
- Better high speed pull
- More heat
Typical gain:
about 20 to 30 percent
Kelly field weakening setting
Parameter: Min Excitation
| Value | Effect |
|---|---|
| 0 | Off |
| 10 | About 20 percent |
| 20 | About 40 percent |
| 30 | About 60 percent |
| 40 | About 80 percent |
| 50 | About 100 percent |
Monitor motor temperature closely.
Programming and Connectivity
Use the Kelly software to read and write settings.
Supported platforms:
- Android (Bluetooth)
- Windows (USB or Bluetooth)
Connection options:
- White Bluetooth module (older bikes)
- Black BLE module (newer bikes)
- USB to RS232 cable
All use JST SM 4 pin connectors.

Regenerative Braking
Regen is controlled by the parameter:
RLS_TPS Brk Per%
This defines how strong braking is when the throttle is released.
| Setting | Effect |
|---|---|
| 0 | No throttle release regen |
| 1 | Always on light regen |
| 25 | Medium regen |
| 50 | Maximum regen |
Recommended tuning:
- Adjust in steps of 5 to 10
- Test ride after each change
- Higher regen means more braking and more motor heat
Cruise Control
Cruise Control can’t be programmed. It activates automatically every time you hit 30 mph and hold the throttle steady for 5 seconds, as long as it is enabled.
Boost Feature
Avoid enabling the boost feature. It can weaken the controller. Activating boost requires additional physical modifications, which are not recommended.
ONYX 23Ah and 41Ah Battery Aging Limitations
The ONYX 23Ah and 41Ah battery packs are now well into their aging curve and no longer deliver their original capacity or peak discharge performance. In real-world use, this typically appears as a 10 to 20 percent reduction in usable range and roughly a 15 percent drop in maximum output. As the cells age, internal resistance increases, which causes deeper voltage sag under load and noticeably higher battery temperatures during hard acceleration and sustained high power use.
At this stage, both packs have very limited tolerance for being pushed beyond factory limits. Operating above the stock Kelly controller current levels significantly increases the risk of permanent cell damage. High-current modes such as SICKO MODE or FarDriver JAWS MODE can over-stress individual cells, trigger localized overheating and accelerated cell degradation, and cause irreversible capacity loss. In severe cases, this can render the pack partially or fully unrecoverable.
For reliability and long-term safety, these batteries should only be operated within the DC current, DC boost, and AC phase current limits listed below.
ONYX 23Ah DC Current and Phase
- DC Current Amps: 40A to 50A
- DC Boost Current: 55A to 60A
- AC Phase Current: 120A to 150A
ONYX 41Ah DC Current and Phase
- DC Current Amps: 80A to 90A
- DC Boost Current: 90A to 100A
- AC Phase Current: 180A to 240A
ONYX RCR Kelly 7230S Controller Stock Settings
This is the full stock settings list from ONYX Motors.
| Field | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Module Name | KLS 7230S | |
| Controller Volt | 72 | |
| Low Volt | 55 | |
| Over Volt | 90 | |
| Current Percent | 50 | |
| Bat Current Limit | 55 | |
| Motor Identity En | 85 | |
| Hall Galvan Rate | 525 | |
| Phase Curr Max AD | 380 | |
| Brake SW Level | 0 | |
| TPS Low | 0 | |
| TPS High | 95 | |
| TPS Type | 1 | |
| TPS Dead Low | 20 | |
| TPS Dead High | 80 | |
| TPS Forw MAP | 30 | |
| TPS Rev MAP | 20 | |
| Brake Type | 0 | |
| Brake Dead Low | 20 | |
| Brake Dead High | 80 | |
| Max Output Fre | 1000 | |
| Max Speed | 15000 | |
| Max Forw Speed% | 100 | |
| Max Rev Speed% | 100 | |
| MidSpeed Forw Speed | 65 | |
| MidSpeed Rev Speed | 30 | |
| LowSpeed Forw Speed | 35 | |
| LowSpeed Rev Speed | 30 | |
| Three Speed | 2 | |
| PWM Frequency | 16 or 20 | |
| Startup H-Pedal | Check Mark | Yes = 1 |
| Brake H-Pedal | No Check Mark | 0 |
| NTL H-Pedal | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Joystick | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Three Gear Switch | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Boost | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Foot Switch | No Check Mark | 0 |
| SW Level | Check Mark | Yes = 1 |
| 0,HIM;1,KIM | Check Mark | Yes = 1 |
| Cruise | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Anti Slip | No Check Mark | 0 |
| Change Dir | Check Mark | Yes = 1 |
| IQ Kp | 500 | |
| IQ Ki | 10 | |
| IQ Kp | 1500 | (second IQ Kp field as shown in stock settings) |
| IK Ki | 30 | |
| Anti Theft Curr# | 15 | |
| BRK_AD Brk %# | 25 | |
| RLS_TPS Brk Per% | 1 | Throttle release regen |
| NTL Brk Per% | 0 | |
| Accel Time | 5 | |
| Accel Release Time | 1 | |
| Brake Time | 5 | |
| Brake Release Time | 1 | |
| BRK_SW Brk Per% | 25 | 50 = Max Regen |
| Change Dir Brk% | 0 | |
| Compensation Per% | 20 | |
| IVT BRK Max | 50 | |
| IVT BRK Min | 50 | |
| Torque Speed KP | 3000 | |
| Torque Speed KI | 80 | |
| Speed Err Limit | 1000 | |
| Motor Normal Curr | 80 | |
| Motor Poles | 32 | |
| Speed Sensor Type | 2 | |
| Resolver Poles | 2 | |
| Motor Temp Sensor | 2 | |
| High Temp Cut C | 170 | |
| High Temp Resume | 150 | |
| Line Hall Zero | 508 | |
| Line Hall Amplitude | 410 | |
| Line Hall High Err | 972 | |
| Line Hall Low Err | 50 | |
| Exchange Phase AB | 0 | |
| Resolver Start Angle | 8129 | |
| 0° Hall | 2 | |
| 60° Hall | 3 | |
| 120° Hall | 1 | |
| 180° Hall | 5 | |
| 240° Hall | 4 | |
| 300° Hall | 6 | |
| Forw A Rise Hall | 3 | |
| Forw A Fall Hall | 4 | |
| Rev A Rise Hall | 5 | |
| Rev A Fall Hall | 2 |
Aftermarket Controllers: When to Upgrade
Benefits:
- Higher current limits
- Better cooling
- Faster acceleration
- Higher top speed
- Advanced tuning
Popular 72V Controller Options
| Controller | DC Amps | AC Amps | Price | Temp | MOSFETs |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KO Moto RUSH | 600a | 1800a | $1,195 | 176°F | |
| EBMX X-9000 | 500a | 1000a / 1500a | $1,165 | 176°F | |
| 3Shul C1400 V4.1 | 700a | 1400a | $1,400 | 212°F | |
| TORP TC1000 | 700a | 1000a | $1,105 | 167°F | |
| Fardriver 721000 | 500a | 1000a | $380 | 176°F | 48 |
| 3Shul C1000 V4.0 | 500a | 1000a | $840 | 212°F | |
| VTB V9600 | 500a | 960a | $1,000 | 176°F | |
| Fardriver 72890 | 450a | 890a | $370 | 176°F | 48 |
| Fardriver 72780 | 390a | 780a | $345 | 176°F | 36 |
| ASI BAC 8000 | 380a | 700a | $900 | 176°F | |
| 3Shul C700 V4.0 | 350a | 700a | $680 | 212°F | |
| Fardriver 72680 | 350a | 680a | $190 | 176°F | 30 |
| Fardriver 72530 | 330a | 530a | $210 | 185°F | 30 |
| ASI BAC 7000 | 380a | 510a | $700 | 176°F | |
| Nucular P24F | 350a | 500a | $750 | 176°F | |
| Kelly 7270 | 225a | 450a | $250 | 212°F | |
| Sabvoton 72200 | 200a | 450a | $280 | 176°F | 24 |
| ASI BAC 4000 | 180a | 430a | $600 | 176°F | |
| Kelly 7240 | 150a | 400a | $300 | 212°F | |
| Sabvoton 72150 | 150a | 350a | $210 | 176°F | 24 |
| Kelly 7230 | 120a | 300a | $250 | 212°F | |
| 3Shul C350 V4.0 | 200a | 400a | $400 | 212°F | |
| FarDriver 721000 | 500A | 1000A | $380 | ||
| KO Moto RUSH | 600A | 1800A | $1,195 | ||
| EBMX X-9000 | 500A | 1500A | $1,165 | ||
| ASI BAC 8000 | 380A | 700A | $900 | ||
| Kelly 7270 | 225A | 450A | $250 | ||
| Sabvoton 72200 | 200A | 450A | $280 |
ONYX Left Handlebar Controls
Always use stock controls when possible. Aftermarket controls require rewiring.
Purchase Links
Aftermarket Control #1 Wiring
| Function | Position | Stock Wire | Aftermarket Wire |
|---|---|---|---|
| High beam | On | White | Yellow |
| High beam | Off | Grey | Black |
| Turn signal | Left | Green | Green |
| Turn signal | Neutral | Red | Blue |
| Turn signal | Right | Blue | Red |
| Horn | On | Yellow | Pink |
| Horn | Off | Brown | Brown |
| USB | + | Purple | None |
| USB | - | Black | None |
Aftermarket Control #2 Wiring
| Function | Position | Stock Wire | Aftermarket Wire |
|---|---|---|---|
| High beam | On | White | Yellow |
| High beam | Off | Grey | Yellow |
| Turn signal | Left | Green | Black |
| Turn signal | Neutral | Red | Red |
| Turn signal | Right | Blue | Green |
| Horn | On | Yellow | Yellow |
| Horn | Off | Brown | Yellow |
| USB | + | Purple | None |
| USB | - | Black | None |
The ONYX Blocker Matrix (Speed Limiter)
Newer ONYX bikes include a plug in speed limiter called the Blocker Matrix.

How to Disable It
- Open battery cover
- Find the green single pin connectors
- Disconnect the paired plugs
- Reconnect matching colors together
Your bike will immediately return to full speed.
Removing the Module
- Remove side panel
- Unplug the module between throttle and harness
- Store it if needed
Completely plug and play.
Kelly controller LED codes
This section explains how to read the small lights on the Kelly controller when something goes wrong. The green light shows if the controller has power and is working normally, while the red light flashes in patterns to tell you what problem it has detected. Each flash pattern matches a specific issue, such as a battery voltage problem, wiring or sensor problem, throttle issue, overheating, or an internal fault. By counting the flashes and checking this table, you can quickly figure out what is wrong and what to look at first, instead of guessing.
There are no user serviceable parts inside the controller.
- Green LED off usually means power, fuse, or wiring issue
- Green on is normal operation
- Green and red on together often means software or voltage problem
- Red blink codes point to wiring, voltage, temperature, or throttle faults
- Auto Identify failures are commonly hall or phase wiring related
Green LED Codes
| Green LED | Explanation | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Off | No power or switched off | Check wiring, fuse, and power supply |
| On | Normal operation | Normal |
| Green and Red both on | Software needs upgrading, supply voltage too low or battery too high, or controller damage | Update software, verify battery voltage, or contact Kelly for service |
Red LED Codes
These are shown in the manual as code pairs like 1,1.
| Code | Explanation | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| 1,1 | Automatic error identification | Wrong motor phase or hall wiring. Suspend motor during Auto Identify |
| 1,2 | Over voltage error | Battery voltage too high for controller. Check battery volts and configuration. Regen over-voltage may cause the controller to cut back or stop regen |
| 1,3 | Low voltage error | Clears after battery voltage returns to normal. Check battery volts and recharge if required |
| 1,4 | Reserved | |
| 2,1 | Motor did not start | Did not reach 25 electrical RPM within 2 seconds. Hall sensor or phase wiring problem |
| 2,2 | Internal volts fault | Verify B+ and PWR vs B- / RTN. Check for excessive +5V load from regen/throttle pots or wiring. If damaged, contact Kelly |
| 2,3 | Over temperature | Controller exceeded 100°C. Stops and restarts when below 80°C |
| 2,4 | Throttle error at power-up | Throttle signal above dead zone at power on. Clears when throttle is released |
| 3,1 | Reserved | |
| 3,2 | Internal reset | Often transient: temporary over-current or momentary high/low battery voltage |
| 3,3 | Hall throttle open or short-circuit | Repair throttle. Restart clears fault |
| 3,4 | Angle sensor error | Sensor type setting, wiring, or sensor feedback issue. Set correct sensor type in user program/app and verify wiring |
| 4,1 | Reserved | |
| 4,2 | Reserved | |
| 4,3 | Motor over-temperature | Motor exceeded configured max. Controller shuts down until motor cools |
| 4,4 | Hall galvanometer sensor error (KLS-8080I only) | Only valid for KLS-8080I. Device inside controller may be damaged |
Stock Throttle Setup
Most ONYX bikes only use about 60% of their throttle travel by default.
That causes:
- Jerky low-speed control
- Accidental over-throttling
- Reduced range
- Poor power modulation
By adjusting TPS dead zones and the throttle curve, you can unlock nearly the full throttle range and dramatically improve how the bike rides.
Throttle Dead Zones (TPS Dead Low / High)
By default, the controller ignores large portions of your throttle movement.
Default values
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| TPS Dead Low | 20% |
| TPS Dead High | 80% |
What this means
- First 20% = no response
- Last 20% = full throttle
- Only 60% actually controls speed
Optimized Dead Zone Settings
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| TPS Dead Low | 5% |
| TPS Dead High | 95% |
Results:
- Bike responds almost immediately
- Maximum speed only at the very end
- 90% of throttle travel becomes usable
- Much smoother control
Stock Throttle
- TPS Dead Low usually cannot go below 18%
- TPS Dead High can safely be raised to 95%
This still improves usable travel significantly.
TPS Forw MAP (Throttle Sensitivity)
This setting controls where power is concentrated in the throttle range.
| TPS Forw MAP | Behavior |
|---|---|
| 30 | Power biased toward last half |
| 50 | Linear response |
| 70 | Power biased early (twitchy) |
| 20 | Very smooth, soft response |
Recommended:
- 50% for linear daily riding
- 30-40% for smooth city control
- 70% only for aggressive riding
Throttle Curves Explained
Throttle curves reshape how fast power ramps in.
Stock / Logarithmic Curve
- Big torque immediately
- Fun but inefficient
- Drains battery faster
- Weak at high speed
Exponential Curve (recommended)
- Gentle low-speed power
- Strong mid-to-high speed pull
- Better range
- More precise control
This is ideal for Sport Mode and high-power setups.
Recommended Throttle Curve Settings
| Curve Type | TPS Forw MAP |
|---|---|
| Stock | 30 |
| Logarithmic | 30 |
| Linear | 50 |
| Exponential | 70 |
Try this test:
- Cruise slowly in Sport Mode
- Do a few pulls from 25 mph
- Then full throttle from a stop
The difference is immediately noticeable.
Real-World Benefits
After tuning:
- Throttle becomes predictable
- Low-speed riding is easier
- Fewer accidental wheelies
- Longer range
- Better control in high-power modes
- Domino throttle becomes far more usable
This setup is especially important for Sicko Mode.
Domino Throttle Setup
Before touching anything electrical:
- Turn the bike on
- Disconnect the battery
- Wait a few seconds for the system to discharge
This prevents shorts, controller damage, and accidental sparks.
Tools You’ll Need
Mechanical crimps are preferred over solder for reliability and vibration resistance.
- Brass crimp terminals
- Self-adjusting wire stripper
- Wire crimping tool
- Dual-temperature heat gun
- Electrical loom tape
- 30mm heat-shrink tubing
Domino Throttle and Switches
Use these known-compatible parts to match the wiring tables below:
If your switch uses different colors, request a wiring diagram before proceeding.
Good Lighting
Work in a bright area. Misreading wire colors can permanently damage the controller.
Mode Switch Wire Warning
The yellow and green wires are both positive on the ONYX RCR.
- Never allow them to touch while powered on
- Doing so will damage the controller instantly
Avoid Soldering
For vehicle wiring:
- Crimping is stronger under vibration
- Handles heat cycles better
- Maintains lower resistance
- Avoids brittle joints
Only solder:
- Battery charge connectors
- Battery discharge connectors
Everything else should be crimped.

Domino Throttle Install Instructions
This install reuses the stock throttle harness. No new wiring runs are required.
Preparation
- Cut the Domino throttle connector off (leave 1 inch)
- Locate the stock throttle cable
- Cut it 2 inches from the throttle housing

Harness Prep
- Slide 5 inches of heat-shrink onto the bike harness
- Strip 2 inches of outer insulation from all bundles
- Strip ½ inch from each individual wire
Wiring
- Match colors using the tables below
- Crimp each joint
- Wrap each joint with 1½ inches of loom tape
Testing
- Reconnect battery
- Power on
- Test throttle
- Test power switch
- Test mode switch
If all works:
- Power off
- Slide heat-shrink over joints
- Shrink evenly using heat gun
- Stop once fully sealed
Domino Throttle Wires
| RCR Wire | Domino Wire |
|---|---|
| Red | Blue |
| Black | White |
| White | Black |
Power Switch Wiring
Triple Switch (Blue, Red, Brown)
| RCR Wire | Power Wire |
|---|---|
| Purple (Bluish) | Brown |
| Grey | Red |
Double Switch (Blue, Red)
| RCR Wire | Power Wire |
|---|---|
| Purple (Bluish) | Blue |
| Grey | Red |
Mode Switch Wiring
Triple Switch (Blue, Red, Brown)
| RCR Wire | Mode Wire |
|---|---|
| Green | Blue |
| Brown | Red |
| Yellow | Brown |
Triple Switch (Black, Blue, Brown - discontinued)
- Older ON/OFF/ON variant
- Still usable if found
| RCR Wire | Mode Wire |
|---|---|
| Green | Brown |
| Brown | Black |
| Yellow | Blue |
Final Notes
- Double-check wire colors before crimping
- Never test wiring with exposed connectors
- Do not hot-plug switches
- Keep harness strain-free
A clean throttle install improves response, reliability, and long-term controller health.
Final Advice
Learn voltage, current, and heat before chasing speed.
Tune one setting at a time and log the result.
Respect battery limits, especially on aging 23Ah and 41Ah packs.
Keep regen conservative and temperatures visible.
Never increase controller current without upgrading wiring and cooling first.
Do not enable features you do not fully understand.
And remember:
Controllers are easy to replace.
Motors are expensive.
Batteries are the hardest to recover from damage.
Build in layers. Test between changes. Let temperature be your guardrail.
That is how you get real performance from an ONYX RCR without turning parts into consumables.
