72V ONYX SICKO MODE - KELLY CONTROLLER

Sicko Mode unlocks the highest output available on the stock Kelly controller.

• ONYX Kelly Controller Programming Guide
• AC Aduser App Downloads

Depending on setup, power jumps to 17.5-24 kW. That is over 3× stock power, and mistakes become expensive very quickly.

For reference:

• Stock RCR: ~7.2 kW
• Torque Mode: 12 kW
• Champ Mode: 15 kW

Torque and Champ are recommended stepping stones before enabling Sicko.

This level of power demands a serious battery. Older ONYX 41Ah packs struggle beyond ~11 kW. Reliable Sicko builds use modern high-output cells such as:

• Tenpower 50GX
• EVE 50PL
• Reliance RS50
• Ampace JP50

LTD and v1.75 models already include QS8 wiring, and most AMORGE packs are pre-configured for high current.

ONYX 23Ah or 41Ah Battery

Do not use the ONYX 23Ah or 41Ah battery packs for SICKO MODE.

Both packs are now well into their aging curve and no longer deliver their original capacity or peak discharge capability. In practice this already shows up as a 10 to 20 percent reduction in usable range and roughly a 15 percent drop in maximum output due to increased internal resistance and voltage sag under load.

More importantly, at this age these batteries are highly vulnerable to permanent cell damage when operated above stock Kelly controller current limits. SICKO MODE pushes sustained and peak currents far beyond what these aging cells can safely supply, which can over-stress individual cells, accelerate localized degradation, and cause irreversible capacity loss or internal failure. Once this happens, the pack is often partially or fully unrecoverable.

Sicko Mode Requirements

Supported models:

• RCR v1.0
• v1.2
• v1.5
• LTD
• v1.75

Minimum hardware:

• External controller mount
• 150A+ capable battery
• 6 AWG battery leads
• Statorade
• Hubsinks

Sicko Mode Controller Programming

Connect using Kelly software and configure the following.

Mode Power Output

Kelly 7230 Settings

Programming Steps

• Set Current Percent -> 100
• Set Battery Current Limit -> 100
• Set Accel Time -> 1
• Set KP = 4000, KI = 110, Speed Error = 1100
• Tap Write
• Power bike off for 5 seconds, then back on

Lower accel time = harder launch. Wheelies are common.

Sicko Mode FAQ

• Can I skip Statorade and Hubsinks?

No. Expect thermal throttling or motor damage.

• Do I need external controller mounting?

Strongly recommended for aggressive riding.

• Do I need a bigger motor?

No. QS205 motors have handled this power level for years.

• Cost and time?

~$160 DIY or $225-$300 shop labor. About 2-3 hours.

Battery Connector Upgrade

SB50 connectors are not reliable at high current.

Upgrade to:

• QS8 connectors
• 6 AWG cable

ONYX 45Ah and AMORGE packs already include this.

Mount Controller Externally

External mounting dramatically improves cooling.

• Controller is weather sealed
• Extend power cables only (not phase wires)
• Use M6 × 8 mm or M6 × 18 mm bolts

Statorade

• Statorade

Statorade is a magnetic ferrofluid that transfers heat from the stator to the motor shell.

It is inexpensive, permanent, and highly effective - especially for:

• Sicko Mode riding
• Hot weather
• Long sustained pulls

Real-world benefits:

• Lower motor temps
• Less thermal throttling
• Better repeat acceleration
• Improved long-term reliability

Real-World Impact

On the QS205 V3Ti 4T motor:

• 20-30 RPM reduction
• ~0.25 mph top-speed loss

In exchange:

• Major heat-transfer improvement
• More consistent power
• Higher sustained output
• Increased thermal headroom

How Statorade Is Applied

Two safe methods:

1. Direct injection (best)
2. Drill-and-inject (easier)

Method 1: Direct Injection

Remove the phase-side motor cover and inject fluid between the magnets.

Most accurate method. Requires partial disassembly.

Video

Method 2: Drill Injection

Syringe fits holes as small as 2 mm.

Drill Location

• Rear-facing side
• Right (chain) side preferred
• Avoid sensor wires

Drill Specs

Inject 6 ml slowly.

After Drilling

• Seal with black Gorilla tape
• No sealant required
• No leakage once distributed

Video

Hubsinks

Hubsinks are aluminum heat sinks mounted to the motor shell.

They:

• Pull heat from the casing
• Dump heat into moving air
• Reduce sustained overheating

Real-world improvement: up to 2× shell heat dissipation.

Why Motors Overheat

Most heat is generated in the stator.

Without upgrades:

• Heat crosses an air gap
• Air insulates
• Shell stays cool
• Internals overheat

Statorade + Hubsinks (Best Setup)

• Statorade: stator -> shell
• Hubsinks: shell -> air

Combined heat path:

Stator -> Shell -> Hubsinks -> Air

Results:

• Higher sustained power
• Lower temps
• Less throttling
• Longer motor life

Tools and Parts

• HubSink V2 - QS205
• 6mm Wrench (Two Piece Set)

Installation Overview

Before starting:

• Power off bike
• Let motor cool
• Clean shell with alcohol

Installation Steps

1. Assemble six links
2. Leave last screw out
3. Lightly thread all nuts
4. Apply thermal grease
5. Feed first link through spokes
6. Wrap around shell
7. Install final screw
8. Tighten evenly

Do not overtighten.

Thermal Performance Reference

When Hubsinks Matter Most

• Sicko Mode riding
• Hot climates
• Repeated hard acceleration
• Long climbs
• Heavy riders or cargo

Final Recommendation

If you run high power and care about reliability:

Statorade + Hubsinks = mandatory protection.

They are affordable, passive, and proven to extend motor life under extreme loads.