Credit: Eudes Espino
Test Each Others Brakes
I encourage ONYX owners to test each other’s brakes-it’s a great way to instantly understand how well-maintained brakes should feel. This helps ONYX friends immediately recognize when their own brakes need servicing.
The Correct Brake FLuid
Your ONYX rolls with DOT 3 brake fluid, but what if you want to switch it up? Can you mix brake fluids? What’s the difference between them? Dive into ONYX RCR DOT Brake Fluid post and keep those brakes tight!
Brake Fluid
Need DOT brake fluid? Check out the ONYX Aftermarket Parts post to grab what you need and keep those brakes on point!
Brake Fluid Level
Keep your ONYX upright-no leaning on the kickstand! Once it’s standing straight with the front tire pointing forward, check the brake fluid reservoir level through the indicator windows. Use a flashlight if needed. If the fluid level is about halfway, you’re good to go! No need to top it off-there’s a bladder inside that helps equalize pressure, and overfilling won’t improve performance.
Front Brake Pads
ONYX front brake pads are built to last-some riders get up to 7,000 miles out of them, while the more aggressive ones burn through them in about 3,000 miles. Check your brake pads every 2,000 miles to make sure they’ve still got plenty of life left and aren’t caked in oil, grime, or anything else that doesn’t belong. And just to be crystal clear-never put anything on your brake pads except brake parts cleaner spray. No shortcuts, no weird hacks-just clean, reliable stopping power!
Front Brake Disc Squeaking
Grab the sandpaper pack from the ONYX Tools post-it comes with both rough and fine sandpaper-because this is the fix for your squeaky front brakes! Sure, the brake pads might be the issue, but most of the time, it’s the front brake disc that just needs a little sanding magic. Smooth it out and enjoy a squeak-free ride!
Tools You’ll Need
- Sand Paper 300 to 500 Grit
- Sand Paper 3000 to 5000 Grit
- Brake Parts Cleaner Spray
- Paper Towels
Brake Disc Squeaking Fix
Grab some 300 to 500 grit sandpaper and start sanding the edge of the front brake disc-right where the arrows in the picture are pointing. Make sure to hit both edges: one facing the spokes and the other facing away. You’ll be smoothing out the entire outer edge all the way around the disc.
As you go, run your fingertips along the inside and outside edges until they feel buttery smooth-no burrs, no imperfections, just clean metal.
Once you’ve knocked off all the rough spots, it’s time for round two! Switch to a finer 3000 to 5000 grit sandpaper and repeat the process for that perfect finish. When you’re done, the disc edges should be flawlessly smooth inside and out.
Oh, and heads up-those little burrs you just sanded off probably left their mark on your brake pads, so those might need a little TLC too!
Front Brake Piston Stuck
In rare cases, an air bubble can get trapped behind the front brake piston. You’ll know this is happening if the piston doesn’t return to its original flush position, causing your brakes to feel like they’re sticking.
No brake bleed kit is needed to fix this.
The solution is simple but messy, so take the bike outside or place a towel on the ground-brake fluid is corrosive and can damage floor finishes.
How to Fix It
- Remove the rubber cover from the bleed valve.
- Use a size 3 wrench to slowly turn the valve counterclockwise about half a turn (or more if needed).
- Push the brake piston back in using large pliers or a flat metal tool until it sits flush.
- Allow a little brake fluid to escape while pressing the piston back in.
- Once the piston is flush, turn the bleed valve clockwise to close it.
That’s it! Your brake should now feel normal again.
Brake Disc Glaze
Brake disc glaze happens when excessive heat hardens and smooths the brake pads, diminishing braking performance. This can lead to vibrations, shuddering, and decreased stopping power.
Causes of Brake Disc Glaze
- Riding the brakes: Keeping light pressure on the brakes for extended periods, like when going downhill.
- Excessive heat: Brake temperatures exceeding the pad’s heat tolerance, causing hardening and smoothing.
Brake Disc Glaze Symptoms
- Vibrations or shuddering when braking
- Inconsistent braking power
- Reduced bite and responsiveness
- Pulsing brake lever
- Squeaky brakes
Brake Disc Glaze Fixes
- Sand the brake pads: Lightly sand the pad surface to temporarily restore performance.
- Wet and rub the pads: Gently rub the pads together with water to remove the glaze.
- Replace the brake pads: Severely glazed pads may crack, making replacement the best long-term fix.
Front Brake Caliper Pad Clips
On very rare occasions, the front brake caliper pad clips might not be as aligned as they should be. This is something to check when changing your brake pads, troubleshooting any noises, or addressing rolling resistance from the front tire. Their job is to hold the brake pads in place and ensure they return to the open position, preventing constant contact with the disc.
Caliper Pad Clips Fix Video
This video provides an excellent demonstration on how to adjust the front brake caliper pad clips, along with detailed instructions on servicing your front brake and a complete teardown of the system.
Front Brake Pads Cleaning
Don’t just set it and forget it-your front brake pads deserve some love every 2,000 miles! Check for wear, clean them up, and keep them in top shape.
Grab some 300 to 500 grit sandpaper and give the pad surface (the part that touches the disc) a light sanding for about 10 seconds. Then, step it up with 3000 to 5000 grit sandpaper for another 10 seconds to get that smooth finish.
This only shaves off a tiny bit of material but leaves your pads fresh, flat, and ready to grip the disc properly. Pro tip: Keep it light-this is a finesse job, not a workout!
Tools You’ll Need
- Sand Paper 300 to 500 Grit
- Sand Paper 3000 to 5000 Grit
- Brake Parts Cleaner Spray
- Paper Towels
Brake Parts Cleaner Spray
Hold the can 6-10 inches away from the brake disc or pads and hit them with short, controlled bursts-no need to go overboard! Let the cleaner do its thing and drip off naturally-don’t rush to wipe it. Most of it will evaporate fast, but if any stubborn grime sticks around, grab a clean, lint-free rag and give it a quick wipe. Smooth, clean brakes incoming!
- Always use brake parts cleaner outdoors or in a well-ventilated area-it can stain and damage indoor floors.
- Keep it away from painted or plastic parts-this stuff can ruin your finish fast.
- After cleaning, hands off the disc and pads-oily fingerprints can mess up braking performance.
- No WD-40, no lubricants, no shortcuts-only brake parts cleaner belongs on your brakes!
Front Fork Brake Line Clip
The front fork clip isn’t just for looks-it’s the unsung hero of your front brake line. Inspect it, maintain it, and most importantly, respect it! If you’re running Shinko 241 or 244 tires, take it up a notch by adding a stainless steel locking tie to the front fork stabilizer and brake line for the ultimate fix. This is a must-have to keep your brake line from smacking the tire. Just hook it around the brake line, slide it behind the front fork stabilizer, and boom-secure, solid, and ready to ride!
ou can find the stainless steel locking tie in the ONYX Tools post!
Removing Front Brake Pads Video
Tools You’ll Need
- 6mm Hex Socket or Wrench
- Brake Parts Cleaner Spray