Credit: QDASH Real-time Metrics
ONYX Sicko Mode Tuning
21,000W Sicko Mode hits like a caffeinated cheetah, so yeah-handle with care. Never walk next to a live RCR unless you enjoy surprise pigeon chases. Know your kill switch, and use that regen brake (left lever = lifesaver). Don’t crank the power unless you’ve installed a QS8 6 AWG battery lead, relocated the Kelly controller outside, and added Statorade and Hubsinks-or get ready for Limp Mode as your motor cooks itself.
Think you’re in Sicko Mode? Not if your battery’s weak. ONYX 41Ah EK, Chi, PL, and JW packs can’t hold past 11kW. Real Sicko needs muscle: ONYX 45Ah, HD 41Ah, NAB, NEBS, or AMORGE packs with P45B, P50B, BAK, or EVE cells and 6-8 AWG wiring. Stock RCRs ship at 7,200W. Got an LTD or V1.75? No QS8 upgrade needed. Running an AMORGE battery? You’re already halfway there.
Parts Install, Guides, & Apps
Sicko Mode Requirements
Sicko Mode is pure mayhem powered by the stock Kelly controller on the ONYX RCR v1.0, v1.2, v1.5, LTD, and v1.75. To unleash it, you’ll need an ONYX 45Ah or an AMORGE battery built with Molicel P45B, P50B, BAK 45D/50D, or Samsung 50S cells. The beefier the battery, the crazier the chaos-because more juice means more launch.
Parts | LTD, v1.75 | v1.0, v,1.2v, 1.5 |
---|---|---|
Relocate Controller | ✅ | ✅ |
DC 150a+ Battery | ✅ | ✅ |
6 AWG Battery Lead | ✅ | ✅ |
Statorade | ✅ | ✅ |
Hubsinks | ✅ | ✅ |
Sicko Mode Parts Links
Sicko Mode Controller Programing
Once you’ve followed the steps in the “ONYX Kelly Controller Programming Guide” to access the controller, use the instructions below to dial in Sicko Mode. At 21,000 watts, it’s the top tier-but it doesn’t ride alone. Torque Mode (12,000 watts) and Champ Mode (17,000 watts) are your trusty sidekicks, perfect for ramping up before going full Sicko Mode.
Mode Power Output
Mode | Stock | Torque | Champ | Sicko |
---|---|---|---|---|
Kilowatts | 7kw | 12kw | 17kw | 21kw |
Kelly 7230 Controller Settings
Field | Stock | Torque | Champ | Sicko |
---|---|---|---|---|
Current Percent | 50 | 75 | 85 | 100 |
Bat Current Limit | 55 | 75 | 85 | 100 |
Accel Time | 5 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
Torque Speed KP | 3000 | 4000 | 4000 | 4000 |
Torque Speed KI | 80 | 110 | 110 | 110 |
Speed Err Limit | 1000 | 1100 | 1100 | 1100 |
AC Aduser App Kelly Controller Programing
- Set “Current Percent” from 50 to 100 for 100% total output.
Remove Battery Amp Limit
- Adjust “Bat Current Limit” from 55 to 100 to remove the battery amp restriction.
Adjust Acceleration Time
- Set “Accel Time” from 5 to 1 for instant power-expect wild acceleration and possible wheelies. It’s powerful, so ride smart and practice your control. Accel Time controls how fast power kicks in—stock is 5 seconds, drop it to 1 for instant launch mode. Lower = wilder. Tweak it to match your style and ride comfort.
Refine Torque and Speed Settings
- Change “Torque Speed KP” to 4000.
- Change “Torque Speed KI” to 110.
- Set “Speed Err Limit” to 1100.
Save Changes
- Once all fields are updated, tap “Write”.
- You’ll receive a confirmation message that the changes were written successfully.
Commit Changes
- Turn off your Onyx RCR using the kill switch for 5 seconds.
- Turn it back on to finalize the changes in the controller.
Sicko Mode FAQ
- Question: Can I run Sicko Mode without Statorade or Hubsinks?
- Answer: Sure-if you enjoy Limp Mode and demagnetizing your motor. So… no.
- Question: Will the controller overheat if I don’t move it outside?
- Answer: It might-if you ride hard often. But for cruising, it’s fine staying tucked inside.
- Question: Do I need a bigger motor to run Sicko Mode at 21,000 watts?
- Nope. The 205 motor was pulling 21,000 watts just fine back in 2018-and still is today.
- Question: How much time and money does it take to unlock Sicko Mode?
- Answer: DIY it for around $160, or have a shop handle it for $225–$300 in labor (not including parts). Time-wise, it’s a quick afternoon project-about 2-3 hours if you know your way around the bike.
Sicko Mode Pro Tips
Pro tip: Smooth throttle = stock range, even with big power tunes. But if your motor cooks past 200°C, those Neodymium magnets start ghosting. Stay cool-read the ONYX Temps post.
Pro Tip: Top speed gets a little bump-about 5-7 mph-with Sicko Mode, but if you’re chasing real speed gains, it’s time to bring in the big guns: a Fardriver 680 series controller.
Battery Connector Upgrade
The old SB50 connector (fused or not) can’t hang with Sicko, Champ, or Torque Mode-swap it for a QS8 with a beefy 6 AWG cable. AMORGE and the ONYX 45Ah already come ready with QS8s and 6 AWG leads on both ends, no extra work needed.
Solder QS8 Battery Female
If you need to solder a QS8 connector onto your battery, check out the “Tools Post” for the right soldering kit, and the video for step-by-step instructions.
Solder QS8 Battery Connector Female Video
Mount Controller Externally
For max cooling, let your Kelly controller breathe-mount it outside the bike so it stays cool and keeps those watts flowing. It’s already water-sealed and weather-ready. Just extend the power wires (not the phase wires), and you’re good to go! You can use the stock M6 x 8mm controller mounting screws or upgrade to a longer M6 x 18mm screw set.
Velcro Battery Strap
Lock that battery down tight-upgrade to double Velcro straps so it stays put, even when you’re ripping it in Sicko Mode.
Rear Axle
Crank those rear axle nuts to 80nm-lock ’em down like they owe you money. Hit ’em with thread locker so they stay put, and swap in beefier motor stays before things start flexing where they shouldn’t.
Motor Stays
Beefier motor stays aren’t a must-but if you’re planning to ride hard and push serious power, upgrading them is a smart move. Better safe than watching your wheel try to escape.
Regen Braking
Regenerative braking can generate varying levels of heat depending on intensity and duration of use. In hilly terrain, prolonged or frequent regen can cause significant thermal buildup-especially in the motor windings. To manage this more precisely, some riders assign regen to a separate thumb or handlebar button, allowing on-demand activation rather than relying solely on brake-lever triggers.